Thomas
Keller is a genius. Chef Eli Kaimeh is a culinary ninja. Here’s why:
The meal began with a couple of scrumptious amuse-bouches,
the first of which was a round of delicate gougéres for the table. A signature
Thomas Keller amuse followed—napkin-wrapped “cornets” of salmon tartare atop a
black sesame cone filled with sweet red onion crème fraiche. It was the
perfect introduction to what turned out to be a perfect meal.
The first course was the caviar course, and we
were presented with Per Se’s signature dish, “Oysters and Pearls.” Island Creek
oysters and sterling white sturgeon caviar rested in a "sabayon" of
pearl tapioca, creating a flawless blend of savory flavors. Absolutely
blissful…
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| "Oysters and Pearls" |
For the second course, I couldn’t resist ordering
the Hudson Valley Moulard Duck Foie Gras ($40 supplement)… and it was worth
every penny. It was quite literally the best foie gras I’ve ever tasted! The dish,
served with toasted brioche, was dressed to the nines with Hadley Orchards’ Medjool
dates, Belgian endive, red onion rings, green almonds, mâche, and a
bourbon-vanilla gastrique. A variety of salts also accompanied the dish, including
black and red Hawaiian sea salts and a pink salt from Utah, among others.
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| Hudson Valley Moulard Duck Foie Gras |
The seafood courses commenced with a Slow Poached
Tasmanian Sea Trout. The dish was both elegant and flavorful, and the fish was well
complemented by sungold tomatoes, avocado purée, and a delicious applewood
smoked bacon marmalade. However, the next dish rivaled the trout—a Charcoal
Grilled Georges Bank Sea Scallop. The scallop was perfectly cooked and served
with a tasty amalgamation of sautéed ramps, Hakurei turnips, granny smith
apples, piedmont hazelnuts, and an apple cider gastrique. Both seafood dishes
were absolutely fantastic.
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| Slow Poached Tasmanian Sea Trout |
The first of the protein courses was the most tender
and juicy “Suprême de Poularde,” which rested in a deliciously creamy nettle vichyssoise.
Beautiful purple Okinawa sweet potatoes paired with the poularde, adding color
and a subtle sweetness. I had a great photo of this dish, but I accidentally
deleted it from my phone—so bummed! The Elysian Fields Farm’s spring lamb followed, and
merguez (sausage), fork crushed potatoes, and fava beans completed the hearty
dish. The lamb was cooked perfectly, but I must admit I found it to be a little
too salty for my taste.
Normally by this point in a tasting menu I’m
stuffed to the gills and can’t stomach more than a single bite of my dessert.
Fortunately this time, a combination of conscious self discipline (not
finishing every dish) and proper portion sizes left me comfortably full with a little
room to spare…and it’s a good thing, because we not only received the official
dessert/cheese course but also an additional dessert and plethora of mignardises.
The dessert was truly delectable—a creamy
cheesecake made of Seal Cove Farm’s “Pearl” goat cheese with a graham cracker
crust. The cake rested in a slightly tart strawberry coulis and had a thin
layer of strawberry gelée on top. A strawberry slice, celery ribbons, and
heirloom sorrel provided the finishing touches. So yummy!
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| Seal Cove Farm's "Pearl" Cheesecake |
Following the cheesecake was a Thomas Keller
signature dessert, “Coffee and Doughnuts,” which was so freaking good! What
first appears to be a macchiato is actually warm milk foam over a rich coffee
semifreddo, and alongside the semifreddo came warm cinnamon-sugar doughnut
holes…it was a match made in heaven.
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| "Coffee and Doughnuts" |
After
we finished the “coffee and doughnuts,” the desserts just kept coming! Our server
presented a wooden box of 24 truffles, three rows of white, milk and dark
chocolates, and we were offered as many as we liked. He identified each truffle
from memory for each of the four persons at the table – very impressive! I had the
coconut curry white chocolate, which was divine. We were also given cellophane-wrapped
candies, and just for good measure, Per Se sent us home with a tin of chocolate-filled
sandwich shortbread cookies.
What an amazing culinary experience—Per Se truly
exemplifies complete perfection. And the best news…I get to go back this Friday! Stay tuned for more...
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